Mamanoot's Backabush - Belize

{All pictures are in a slideshow format - click image to advance. There's also a zoom function.}

For anyone who ever wanted to know what it was like to be a Maya traveling through the Central American jungle two thousand years ago, or maybe wanted to live out their Indiana Jones fantasy, spend some time in the Mayflower-Bocawina National Forest at Mamanoot's Backabush Eco-Resort. The time spent exploring some of the incredible trails and dining on world class cuisine will be the highlight of anyone's journey through Belize.

Mamanoot's is one of two properties in the Mayflower Bocawina Forest and was purchased by Nan Noot before Belize declared the area a National Park in 2001. It's an eco-lodge, meaning it's about as environmentally friendly as you can get, generating its power via solar, wind and hydro electricity. That said, Mamanoot's does an excellent job of leaving the surrounding jungle unadulterated, staying true to its claim of being "an energy saving, self-sufficient paradise."

You can find 'Noot's nestled four and a half miles down a dirt road off of mile six on the Southern Highway in the Stann Creek District (about half an hour drive outside of Dangriga). They can come pick you up at the end of the road if you don't have an appropriate vehicle to navigate it. Their staff is unbelievably friendly and helpful and will be happy to arrange for your transportation to and from the airport if needed (either Belize City or Dangriga) as well.

Nan and her Backabush crew's dedication to preserving the environment around them has left the rainforest looking how it probably appeared a million years ago. Mamanoot's is surrounded on all sides by some of the lushest rainforest imaginable, teeming with exotic wildlife amid the dense foliage. Around sunrise and sunset birdcalls will careen off the trees from all directions. The occasional group of howler monkeys will make their presence known as they pass from tree to tree. The raw beauty of it is honestly staggering to the point of speechlessness.

Everything is super-sized, from the ferns to the insects. Leafcutter ants don't have paths; they have foot-wide highways cleared through the underbrush. Here, a tree isn't just a tree, it's got vines and air plants and an assortment of alien looking flowers, moss and mushrooms sprouting out of it in every direction until the entire thing looks like some nonsensical beast taken from the pages of a fantasy novel.

Walking the perimeter of the property, you half-expect to see a T-Rex come barreling out of the foliage and chomp up a member of your party in a single bite. Both "Land of the Lost" and "King Kong" were referenced more than once by fellow travelers. The unearthly shades of greens you'll see... Jesus, they're indescribable. The pictures can't even begin to capture the sheer scope of it all.

Camille Bemer, Mamanoot's hostess, Nan's daughter, and an all-around amazing person (not to mention a great friend), arranged for our group of dirty-thirty (!) travelers to be greeted two days before the new year with a chartered bus in Belize City. We were picked up at Goldson International Airport and driven three hours south to our destination in the jungle. Being the amazing hostess that she is, Camille had the bus stocked with a cooler full of cold Belikins, the national beer of Belize.

A few pit stops later, we arrived at Mamanoot's where we were greeted by Nan, and another good friend, Jason Crane (resident chef and Camille's fiancée). We were shown across the firefly lit grounds to our cozy cabanas where we could drop off our gear and then headed back across the property where we congregated in the main dining hall for some delicious food and some ice-cold drinks.

We would spend the next few days ringing in the new year with good music, great food, wonderful atmosphere, inspiring hikes, amazing friends (both old and new), and two marriage proposals (congratulations Camille and Jason, and Atom and Mechelle!).

The following are a few key points for anyone who would like to, or is considering visiting Mamanoot's Backabush, Playground in the Jungle.

Hiking

The Mayflower-Bocawina forest is extremely secluded and you're about as likely to run into a monkey as you are to run into another human while you hike any number of the nearby trails. As you make your way under the triple canopy, Ezme, the nineteen year old resident guide and jungle boy-wonder will point out jaguar footprints, edible plants, exotic wildlife and all sorts of crazy things hiding throughout the forest. The kid is a full blown genius when it comes to knowledge of the surrounding area (and he happens to be a pretty damn good artist to boot), so make sure to ask plenty of questions.

Along with some good hiking shoes, that you don't mind getting muddy or wet, don't forget to wear a swimsuit or equivalent under your clothes because the big payoff at the end of these trails are cascading waterfalls and crystal clear swimming holes.

The two waterfalls we visited were Bocawina and Antelope Falls, the latter being the more difficult of the two to hike but the more rewarding. Both have amazing opportunities to escape the balmy heat ("balmy..." say it, "balmy." It's fun.) in scenic pools and are beautiful and unique in their own way. The top of Antelope Falls (Upper Antelope Falls) boasts a crystal clear pool at the base of a stunning waterfall, which is scalable and leads to even more crystal clear pools and more stunning waterfalls, which in turn leads to even more of the same. Cliff diving anyone? You bet your mosquito bitten ass. The first pool at Upper Antelope has a nice fifteen footer to jump from. Just watch your step because navigating the slick rocks can be difficult and more than one person from our party ended up with cuts and scratches at both Bocawina and Antelope (it's less slick where there's running water and algae doesn't have a chance to build up).

There's also a viewpoint at Antelope Falls where you can see over the jungle canopy all the way to the ocean. Basically the whole place brings to mind any number of fancy-smancy words like magical and majestic and it's a guarantee you won't be able to wipe the crazy grin off your face or keep your eyes from popping out of your wondering skull at any given moment.

A few words of advice before adventuring off on these absolutely incredible hikes: wear light long pants, a light long-sleeve shirt, and plenty of mosquito repellent. The bugs in the jungle are relentless. You are indeed a rare person if you can go into the Central American rainforest and not be preyed upon by any number of blood-sucking parasites, the most annoying of which are the black flies. I foolishly decided to not wear enough repellent on one such hike and came back with eighteen bites on my right foot and ankle. Eighteen, that's no joke people! So make sure to rock some deet/equivalent or be prepared to get your scratch on. Worse still, you could have the rare misfortune of playing host to a beefworm. So protect your skin from the bloodsuckers.

Also, these are day hikes. Don't get caught in the jungle at night, that's when the jaguars like to hunt.

Wildlife
The surrounding jungle not only hides some of the most beautiful waterfalls and picturesque swimming holes imaginable, but it has over 235 different species of birds. Among them are toucans (the national bird of Belize) motmots (including the ever-so-elusive Keel-billed Motmot), trogans, parrots, and numerous manakins (Booya! Did I just sound like a birder or what?). As far as wildlife of the mammalian variety goes, although shy, the forest hides numerous jaguars, howler monkeys, tapirs, ocelots, coatis, foxes, kinkajous, bats and a number of other little monsters that hunt and play in the jungle. According to Ezme, there's also a croc lurking nearby. If you're lucky, and know how to walk quietly, you'll see a few of the forest denizens, snap off a few pics, and avoid being lunch.

And don't forget the domestic wildlife that lives at Mamanoot's either. The family cat, Mr. Chulo has as much jungle know-how as a jaguar. He runs the place and is as proud of a feline as any. Camille and Jason also have two other amazing cats they transported down with them from Los Angeles, but they're of the indoor variety, so chances are rare that you'll meet them. The new puppy Noni (after the noni fruit which has curative properties) is the main star of the show though. She's a rescue straight from the streets of Dangriga, and is as sweet and cuddly as can be.

Archeological Significance
Just a few hundred yards away from the premises are unexcavated Maya ruins. The Mayflower Archeological team is currently working on excavating three sites in the direct vicinity. There's speculation that Antelope Falls held a specific spiritual significance to the Maya people due to the unexcavated city's proximity. Once you see the falls, you'll understand why.

Accommodations

Mamanoot's has three family size cabanas and a lodge with six attached rooms. The rooms are cute and cozy with warm showers, private bathrooms and fresh water. Some of the most delicious water I've ever tasted comes right off the tap. The beds are some of the comfiest we experienced in Central America and an overhead fan keeps the room nice and cool in the hot climate.

Food and Drink

The dining area and bar are the focal point to Mamanoot's Backabush. It's constructed from local woods and bamboo with a thatched roof. Three of the four walls are dominated by massive windows covered with double screens to keep out the bugs, but allowing you an incredible view of your jungle surroundings. Near the bar is a small library detailing some of the local flora and fauna along with information on the area (among other things). You can also find a display case with a selection of Maya spearheads and tools which were found on the site during construction, so that's pretty interesting. Just outside are hammocks and a swing hung from a massive tree. It's a great place for just hanging out, playing cards, and sipping on a Belikin. If you happened to bring your laptop, Mamanoot's also has free WiFi via satellite internet.

Once your stomach starts growling, and you've worked up an appetite from all of the exploring you've been doing, you're in luck. The food at Mamanoot's is nothing short of delicious. Chef Jason Crane honed his skills at world renowned Chateau Marmont and then at fine dining hot spot Cafe Pinot in Los Angeles before relocating with Camille to Belize. He does an incredible job with the local fare which centers heavily on a diet of fresh seafood, plantains, beans and rice. His black beans are probably the best I've ever tasted, loaded with roasted garlic, caramelized onions, and toasted cumin. Some of the shrimp dishes he makes will knock your socks off; I just drooled on my keyboard thinking about it.

Vegetarian travelers will also be happy to know that Mamanoot's is vegan and vegetarian friendly which is pretty much unheard of throughout much of Central America. One morning for breakfast we chowed down on a tasty tofu scramble which featured some of the fresh local vegetables grown nearby.

It's unbelievable to find this quality of food in the middle of a jungle. Even if you're just passing through the area for a day hike, it's worth it to stop by Mamanoot's for some good eats that you'll be hard pressed to find anywhere else in Belize.

And don't forget to get your drink on. The beautiful wood, stone and bamboo bar is fully stocked with plenty of Belikins along with a rum made by Nan's family (which is knockout good). Just don't get too hammered or you'll miss out on some of the great conversations which await.

Overall
All in all, if you are looking to explore the Belizean jungle first hand and experience its numerous treasures, Mamanoot's is where to do it. I have been twice now and plan on going back again. Both times rank as my number one and two favorite trips I've ever taken. It's impossible to go there without being installed with some magnitude of wonder and awe. It's both an inspiring and life affirming trek. However, if you're squeamish about bugs and mosquitoes, I recommend going somewhere not in the tropics. Maybe South Dakota is more your steez.

If you want to make reservations at Mamanoot's Backabush you can contact them by phone at: 501-670-8019, fax: 501-522-2910 or email: info@mamanoots.com. Their website is http://www.mamanoots.com/.